Are four years in a second fill Hungarian Tokaji cask enough to transform the notoriously characterful Tobermory? Not necessarily: the intense and wild malt from the Isle of Mull always remains true to itself, with its unmistakable oily, earthy and vegetal flavours. What we can say is that while this is still a bold and robust whisky, it has found a new layer of complexity, a new touch of juicy fruitiness that matches well with the muscular body of the spirit. It doesn’t even seem an obvious wine finish: quite simply, it tastes like an old Tobermory should, but with an added sweetness of honey, overripe apricots, raisins, dried plums. A wonderful match either with dessert, or a fine cigar, or even – for the bravest – in a pairing with some blue cheese.