The robustness of this renowned Highlands distillery has only been slightly tamed by a finish of 34 months in a first fill Pedro Ximenez barrel, which added a rounder mouthfeel but left the muscular style of the spirit intact. At the nose it’s very slightly winey and raisiny, and we find pinewood, flour and cereals, liquorice root, a faint organic touch of wet leather. At the palate, it starts with an intense attack, rather dry and even a bit tannic: balsamic notes of camphor and mint, a bit of oak and black liquorice. Then it suddenly blossoms and it opens up, evolving constantly: it becomes warmer, with increasing honey sweetness, and a very rich, round and chewy mouthfeel. There is still pinewood, even a hint of smokiness, and the usual earthy and leathery notes of the distillery. It’s raisiny, but with moderation. It ends on a medicinal and balsamic note, with plenty of unsugared black liquorice, but still very smooth and warm.