Matured for the first eight years in a first fill Oloroso hogshead, and then refined for 80 months in a second fill Bourbon cask to let it grow more slowly without too much winey influence, this single malt from Speyside has a wonderfully juicy and fruity character, well integrated with the spirit. It’s very citrusy, with plenty of oranges, at the nose. There are also red and green apples, and the overall impression tends to be pleasantly sharp. At the palate, it’s creamier than at the nose, but still with a fine alternance between sweet and sour, sunny and stimulating. We find dried apricots and peaches, a hint of raisins, and again plenty of orange juice. The double maturation makes it fruity, peppery, quite tannic and astringent, but never in an overtly winey way. In the finale, its tannins never become overwhelming: on the contrary, we have the smoothness of acacia and chestnut honey, with a touch of bitter orange peel.