A stunningly intense old single malt from Speyside, the result of a slow maturation for thirty years in a refill cask: the best approach to let the spirit evolve naturally, to develop complexity and richness. The attack at the nose is a kaleidoscope of flavours: plenty of tropical fruits (especially pineapple), beeswax, wood polish, chamomile, honey. There is a hint of oak, but it’s so sweet and beautifully integrated, and a grassy note of hay and aromatic meadow herbs. The same mindboggling intensity takes the palate in a sensory assault: definitely waxy, fat but also very mineral, honeyed and rich with pineapples and bananas. It’s extremely concentrated, but the smoothness makes water unnecessary. There also is a touch of ripe grapes, like noble rot in the best dessert wines. The finale is rich but spicy, warm and enveloping.