Not easy to find at such a respectable age, this classic Speyside single malt has the extra luxury of having spent almost nine years of finishing in first fill Oloroso sherry wood: the result is a style that is reminiscent of historical bottlings from decades ago! As expected, it’s very winey and nutty at the nose: it has an earthy note, a whiff of old library, but it remains quite fresh and not too sherry-heavy. There is still a marked fruity character of pears and red apples, marzipan, and the sweetness of roasted chestnuts. The very dry influence of the Oloroso is bolder at the palate: spicy, oaky, quite astringent and a little bit oxidative, but again with a fruity and fresh side. There are wild strawberries, blood oranges, but still on a dry nutty profile, not a sweet one. The long, hot finale is very peppery, but also with a curiously balsamic hint of camphor and mint.