A very old-fashioned bottling of one of Speyside’s most interesting single malts. The final 27 months in second fill Pedro Ximenez hogsheads have been the extra touch to create a rich, luscious and decadent profile that perfectly suits our taste. Very winey, resinous and intense at the nose: the raisiny sweetness is backed by a firm mineral character and ancient wood. It’s at the same time tannic and very sweet, with grapes, tropical fruits, chestnut honey and mature wine, full of tertiary and oxidative notes. There’s also a citrusy and slightly sour note that prevents the sweetness from dominating. At the palate, it closely matches the olfactory impression, but it has a more balsamic side, with hints of pine resin. We then have crème brûlée, candied citrus, roasted nuts: it’s oaky and winey, but juicy and thick, not astringent. The finale is very autumnal, tannic, warm.